The Formation of the Hawaiian Islands

The Hawaiian Islands have long been praised for their natural beauty and remote location in the middle of the Pacific Ocean, making Hawaii a world-renowned, top tourist destination. The Hawaiian Islands were born in a volcanic rage of violence, from hot lava reaching temperatures of 1,140 degrees Celsius (2,085 degrees Fahrenheit) when it hits the ocean, to an absolutely sizzling temperature of 1,250 degrees Celsius (2,200 degrees Fahrenheit) when the lava is in the lava tubes! Have the dream vacation in Hawaii to view lava flowing live on the Big Island of Hawaii!

The Islands of Hawaii are actually the peaks of ancient volcanic mountains which have reared their heads above the water. Native Hawaiians believe that Pele, the Hawaiian goddess of volcanoes, visited each of the islands beginning at the northwest end of the island chain. Geologist generally agree that the order of Pele's visits, as described in the legend, would correlate with the order in which the islands were formed.

The crust of the Earth is not continuous, but is broken into more than a dozen rigid plates. Where the edges of these plates meet, volcanoes, major mountain ranges, ocean deeps, and earthquakes appear. Hawaii's volcanoes are unlike most others, and actually occur in the middle of a plate. Geologists have long been puzzled by this, and speculate that the hot spot responsible for the creation of the Hawaiian Islands actually stays in place, with the Pacific plate moving west a few inches each year, in turn forming each island over the span of many millions of years!

Each of the major Hawaiian Islands was birthed by one (or a few) volcanos. Hawaii's volcano's occur in the middle of the The tallest of these volcanic mountains is Mauna Kea, which rises 13,784 feet (4,201 meters) above sea level. While this hardly rivals Mount Everest, the worlds tallest peak which rises 29,028 feet (8,848 meters) above sea level. On the other hand, when Maunakea is measured from the floor of the ocean where its volcanic birth began, it towers over 1,000 feet (305 meters) higher than Mount Everest.

If we were able to drain the 3 mile deep (4.8 kilometers) Pacific Ocean, the Hawaiian Islands would emerge as a gigantic mountain range measuring 2,000 miles (3,219 kilometers) long, and 130 miles (241 kilometers) wide. Each pile of lava rock grew upward through the ocean. The result of quiet underwater volcanic eruptions in which melted volcanic rock oozed out in long, tubular shaped fingers, which were chilled by the ocean water to a glassy crust, their insides still molten lava. At the ends of these finger-shaped tubes, small bulbs of lava about the size of a trash barrel squeezed out and rolled away, only to flatten from their own weight into a pillow-like shape. These "pillows" became the foundation for every Hawaiian Island.

Through time as the crest of these massive undersea mountains neared sea level, eruptions became violently explosive, as shallow water could not contain the steam released when the lava boiled the seawater. When the volcanic mountains did grow high enough to extend out of the ocean, lava would continue to emerge from the earth through crack and vents. These eruptions led to downslope lava flows, adding to the already unique geographic features, with some plunging all the way down the coast, and meeting with the ocean.

Formation of Oahu

Oahu began as two separate volcanoes - the Waianae Volcano and the Koolau Volcano. As both volcanoes rose well above sea level, lava flowing from the Koolau Volcano formed the Schofield plateau between them, banking against the Waianae Mountains. During that time, Oahu was 1-1/2 times larger than it is today, with the mouths of some streams from the period now resting 1,800 feet (549 meters) below sea level. Diamond Head and Koko Crater, popular tourist destinations, were then inland. Many well-known Oahu landmarks are actually extinct secondary volcanoes: Salt Lake, Punchbowl, Hanauma Bay, Rocky Hill, Black Point, Rabbit Island, Tantalus, and Round Top. The Koolau Volcano comprises more than half of the island of Oahu, having taken about a million years to build.

Reefs of Hawaii

If you are lucky enough to visit world-renowned Waikiki beach on Oahu, you will notice a curious thing. The water at the shoreline is quite calm, with the waves breaking far out to sea. The reason for this is that the shoreline is protected by the coral reef. The islands of Hawaii have a large portion of the shoreline that contain reefs, spanning out into the water from 1/2 mile to 3-1/2 miles (.8 kilometers to 5.6 kilometers). If you were to attempt to walk on the reef, you would find it to be rough (and somewhat painful in areas where its sharp), and treacherous due to it being uneven.

Coral reefs are generally built by small animals called polyps. Very small in size, polyps live in colonies in just the right water temperature and salt content. Coral reefs are the result of generations of polyps that attaches itself to the shell of its ancestors. Algae is another coral producing marine life, filling much of the empty space amongst the vast sea of polyps. Over time, the reef becomes a fairly solid limestone.

Geologists are able to tell that parts of downtown Honolulu and Waikiki actually rest on old reef that had grown when the ocean stood higher. It is evident that the islands were once much larger in size, with drowned reefs that lie hundreds of feet below sea level today. The islands of Lanai, Molokai, Maui and Koolawe actually joined and formed a large single island at one point, when the sea level was much lower.

The Death of Volcanoes and Coral Islands

When a main island-building volcano becomes extinct, erosion occurs, with sinking eventually bringing the volcano down to sea level. When the sinking continues, volcanic rock soon disappears as the ever growing coral reef soon envelops it. The volcanic foundation that once stood, slowly becomes covered in limestone layers as well as reef plants and animals, helping to keep the consistently sinking islands above water.

The atolls (coral islands) of Hawaii often only reach a few feet above sea level, creating enclosed, shallow lagoons. Over time, plate movement and changes in the sea level are pushed into northernly cooler waters, killing reef organisms and causing the islands to sink beneath the sea, seemingly disappearing into the dark abyss of the sea.

Northwest from the Hawaiian Islands, flat-topped seamounts located thousands of feet below sea level, are actually the remnants of ancient sunken volcanoes that are estimated to have stood as high as Mauna Kea or Haleakala. Todays Islands of Hawaii will eventually meet this same fate, but not for another 25 million years from now.

Geography of the Islands

Kauai - The Garden Isle

Kauai, knowns as The Garden Isle, is the oldest of the Hawaiian Islands and the northernmost inhabited island, which was the first island seen by Captain James Cook in 1778. The most fertile island in the chain, Kauai lives up to its nickname "The Garden Isle" in terms of its lush tropical beauty and scenery. Its wide streams and rolling hills are reminiscent of many parts of the Mainland, while its green valleys and beautiful green palm tree lines beaches provide some of the most awe-inspiring views in the State of Hawaii. If you want to try and catch a glimpse of some of Hawaii's last native plants, insects, or birds, visit Alakai Swamp Trail in Kokee State Park which passes through the rainforest and bogs on its way to Kilohana.

There are many natural geographic formations and wonders that can be enjoyed during a visit to Kauai. Because of its age (5-million-years-old), erosion due to extensive weathering created coastal planes and valleys with large streams, as well as deeper soil deposits than any of the other islands. The island was formed from a single major dome, Mt. Waialeale, is the islands highest point which also receives the heaviest rainfall. Make your way further to the west on the northern coast of Kauai, and you'll come to Hanalei, where you can view the awe inspiring Na Pali Cliffs, which have been the backdrop of many famous movies. Its colossal natural spires and cliffs were the backdrop for the movie Jurassic Park. The immense, lush green Na Pali Cliffs are a true sight to be seen. Looking from a distance, its ridges appear as sharply defined cliffs, covered in a wide spectrum of green due to its lush scenery, and red, rocky coastlines which create a stunning contrast with the beautiful blue ocean.

In the southwest, visitors can marvel at what is dubbed the "Grand Canyon of the Pacific." Stretching for as long as 4.6 square miles (7.5 square kilometers) and with a play of warm hues, Waimea Canyon certainly rivals the Grand Canyon in Arizona. On the northern side of the island there is another canyon, albeit seldom visited, named Wainiha Valley. Another unique geographical feature of Kauai located on the southwestern side of the island is Barking Sands. Its unique name comes from the howling noise that can be heard when its sands are thoroughly dry and winds sweep along its shores, sounding remarkably like a dogs bark.

Kauai's climate couldn't be more ideal, with coastal temperatures in February and March averaging 70 degrees fahrenheit (21 degrees celsius), and 79 degrees fahrenheit (26 degrees celsius) in August and September. Mountain areas, in contrast to mountain areas such as Kokee, which are cooler in temperature. Known as "The Garden Isle", Kauai is home to the summit of Waialeale, the wettest spot in the United States, with rainfall averaging 452 inches (17,300 mm). Head 20 miles to the south to the coastal town of Kekaha, which only averages 20 inches (508 mm) of rainfall on average! A stark difference from one another!

Niihau - The Forbidden Isle

Niihau is the smallest of the inhabited islands, measuring only 69.5 square miles (119 square kilometers). Niihau is slightly younger than Kauai, coming in a 4.9 million years old. Nicknamed "The Forbidden Isle", Niihau is just that, with commercial tourists generally not allowed to set foot on it as it is privately owned by the Robinson family, descendents of Elizabeth McHutcheson Sinclair, who purchase the island in 1864 for $10,000 US in gold from King Kamehameha V. Only relatives, US Navy personnel, and government officials are allowed to visit as long as they receive permission from the owners.

Unlike its lush neighbor Kauai, which drains the moisture-abundant trade winds before they even reach Niihau, leaving it with a very limited water supply. Because of this, extensive agriculture is generally not permitted, and the chief occupation is ranching, with livestock such as horses, sheep, and cattle. While taro and fruits are plentiful on the other islands which have significantly more rainfall annually, residents adapted to the arid climates limited agricultural resources and instead grew yams, breadfruit, and sweet potatoes. Niihau's yams, (or uhi) were considered prized provisions by Whalers, as they lasted longer than sweet potato or taro, and were said to have been so heavy that a horse would only be able to carry the weight of 2 yams!

Curiously it is home to the largest natural lake in the Hawaiian Islands, although it quite often is dry. Lake Halalii measures 841+ acres, with its neighbor, Lake Halulu measures 182+ acres. During dry years, lakes will remain dry, as water to fill the lakes come from rainfall, which only averages 20-40 inches (.5-1 meters) a year. No streams exist on the island as well.

The island has one dormant volcano, which eroded into the ocean after a landslide to the east. Niihau is the only island in which the Hawaiian dialect is still primarily used, and where some pure-blooded Hawaiians still follow many of the old Hawaiian ways.

The Northwestern Hawaiian Islands - The Leeward Islands

Spanning over nearly 1,200 miles (1,931 kilometers), the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands consist of many tiny islets, reefs, and shoals that are low-lying. Vegetation is sparse, as these islands are battered by the waves and winds. Since 1909, the islands have been preserved by the Hawaiian Islands National Wildlife Refuge which is a sanctuary for the few surviving native land birds, the Hawaiian monk seal, many species of sea birds, and the green sea turtle (honu).

Oahu - The Gathering Place

Oahu is the third largest island in the chain, with an area of 593 square miles (954 square kilometers). Aptly nicknamed "The Gathering Place", Oahu is the social, political and economic hub of Hawaii, and is home to the state capital of Honolulu. This island was the witness to the first signs of civilization in the Hawaiian archipelago. Due to the existence of a natural harbor, this land was chosen by the Hawaiian royalty as a place to settle in. Thus, this area was enriched and developed. Today, the third largest in Hawaii serves as the financial capital, with the state's capital Honolulu located within its territory.

Known as an island wherein ancient and modern worlds collide, Oahu definitely has a unique geography and topography. More recent volcanic eruptions formed the famous Diamond Head landmark of Oahu, as well as the Koko Head and Punchbowl crater. Oahu stands out from the other islands as it is asymmetrical in shape similar to a butterfly, thanks to the volcanoes on each side of the island.

The Waianae Mountains run parallel to the southwestern coast, while the Koolau Mountains run parallel to the northeastern coast. The Schofield Plate (Leilehua Plateau), where Schofield Army Barracks is located, lies between these two mountain ranges. The Koolau Mountains are praised for their spectacular cliffs, with the Nuuanu Pali being the most famous of these. If you're on Oahu and it's raining in Kaneohe or Kailua, you may be lucky enough to spot one (or a few) rainfalls while driving through the lush, green, stunning Koolau Mountain range. Stop at The Pali (or cliff) Lookout to get a first-hand look at how the sinking of the coastline, with ocean waves wearing away the land, and erosion occurring from the heavy trade wind showers, forming its jagged, yet unique cliffs.

Molokai - The Friendly Isle

Having an area of 261 square miles (418 square kilometers), Molokai is the fifth largest island in the archipelago and Oahu's nearest neighbor. Pristine beaches and spectacular sea cliffs compose the island's 88-mile (141 kilometers) coastline. According to a study of its lava flows, the island is about 1.3 to 1.8 million years old.

Molokai was the result of two clashing volcanoes millions of years ago, one of which is Mauna Loa, not to be confused with Mauna Loa on Hawaii! East of Mauna Loa lies a low saddle area, with the remainder of the island covered by a large dome, in which deep valleys are gouged. This makes the eastern half of Molokai very rugged. Geographically, Molokai has two distinct parts: (1) A wet eastern region, with rugged mountains and sea cliffs, and (2) A drier and flatter western region, which is home to.

Great reefs surround the island of Molokai, except for cliff areas. Ancient Hawaiian fish ponds along the southern coast are sill used for raising fish today. The Makanalua Peninsula, the famous leper settlement where Father Damien worked, juts out from the steep cliffs located in north central Molokai. Founded in 1866, Kalaupapa is a designated national park.

Today, East Molokai and West Molokai are considered the main land formations in this island. Aside from its volcanic origins, the island of Molokai is also known for its breathtaking sea cliffs that are considered to be among the highest in the world. Because of the beauty of these sea cliffs, they have actually been in the spotlight, having been used as a backdrop for the movie Jurassic Park 3.

Lanai - The Pineapple Island

The sixth largest island in the Hawaiian chain is Lanai, which measures 141 square miles (227 square kilometers). The Pineapple Island, as it has been nicknamed, is due to its past days as an island-wide pineapple plantation. Lanai was formed from a single, now distinct volcano, that is probably the oldest of Hawaii's volcanoes. The summit of Lanaihale, located in the east central part of the island, with an elevation of 3,370 feet (1 kilometer).

The topography of the area is varied, though more arid and dryer than other islands such as Kauai. Some scientists believe that Lanai was once joined to Maui and Molokai but erosion and eventual rising sea levels separated the islands over millions of years. One of the natural wonders of Lanai is the Garden of the Gods, a barren area full of rock formations and red dirt reminiscent of the landscape in Mars.

Kahoolawe - The Target Island

Considered as the smallest of the major islands of Hawaii, coming in at 45 square miles (72 square kilometers) with its nickname "The Target Island" sprouting from its use by the U.S. Navy from 1941-1990 as a target, upon which they fired practically every type of conventional artillery. The island has since been reclaimed (2004) by the State of Hawaii, where it can only be used for Native Hawaiian cultural, subsistence, or spiritual purposes, as well as for fishing, historic preservation, environmental conservation, and education.

Kahoolawe has no known permanent residents despite previous efforts to raise cattle and agriculture in the area in the early 1800s, due to the lack of freshwater and the arid nature of the land. Kahoolawe's highest point is the Lua Makika crater at the summit of the Pu'u Moaulanui.

Maui - The Valley Island

Coming in as the second largest Hawaiian Island is "The Valley Island" of Maui, measuring 728 square miles (1,171 square kilometers). Here, lush rainforests and mountains are within easy access to locals and visitors alike via car. Past volcanic eruptions have made Maui's soil very fertile and suitable for plant growth. As a result, verdant forests and lush green mountainsides are plentiful.

Haleakala, Hawaiian for House of the Sun, offers jaw-dropping views of the sunrise for those brave enough to face the early morning hours and chilly pre-dawn temperatures at its summit. Haleakala formed East Maui, and is the world's largest inactive volcano. During the winter months, temperatures at the top of Haleakala can drop below freezing, with snow covering the summit for short periods of time.

One landmark of particular geologic interest is the Dragon's Teeth along the coastline. As lava from the West Maui volcano flowed out into the open sea, wind and strong waves pushed it back, resulting to sharp and curved spires that look like teeth from a giant monster. Down near the Hana Highway is a holy place for ancient Hawaiians completely made out of lava rock. The Piilanihale Heiau is a place of worship that spans the size of two American football fields, and was only discovered in the 1970s, as it was covered and perfectly preserved by undergrowth.

Hawaii - The Big Island, The Orchid Island

The Big Island of Hawaii can be likened to one massive volcano, though there are four major smoke and lava stacks on it. With an area of 4,028 square miles (6,482 kilometers), is measures almost twice the combined size of all islands put together. Despite its size, the Big Island is actually the youngest island in the group, and is continually growing far and wide thanks to its active volcanoes. If you want to catch a glimpse of Hawaii's volcanoes, pay a visit to the Hawaii Volcanoes National Park.

The biggest volcano on the island is Mauna Loa, Hawaiian for Long Mountain, as it encompasses more than half of the Big Island. Despite its big size, one can still have difficulty in finding it as its slopes flare out instead of sloping steeply, a characteristic that can be attributed to shield volcanoes. Just beside Mauna Loa is the Kilauea volcano, currently one of the most active shield volcanoes in the whole world and has attributed approximately 600 acres of new land since 1983. At the rim of Kilauea stands an observatory where scientists study the volcanic activities of the island.

Hawaii is unique, as it features deserts, lush tropical forests, and snow as noted above. The island is continually growing, thanks to its very active and lava spewing volcano. Its size trumps all other Hawaiian Islands, with a unique landscape. Where else in the United States can you see lava flows, pastures, desert, hard-wood forests and stunning beaches?!